Purebred Dog Community - Articles

Deciding To Get A Puppy

administrator@purebredpups.org (purebredpups.org) — Mon, 01 Jan 0001 00:00:00 GMT

So, you have decided you want to get a puppy. Before following through on this decision you need to make sure it has been well thought out. Raising a puppy is a big decision and one that should not be taken lightly. This decision will affect your entire family. Puppies need a lot of care, especially at the beginning. There can also be a fair amount of cost involved in owning a dog. There are the vet bills, food, toys, grooming and other routine costs to consider before buying a dog. If your entire family is on board with this decision then you will need to decide what type of puppy you want to get. Are you going to get a purebred or a mixed breed? Are you going to buy one from a breeder, a pet store, a newspaper ad or adopt one from a local shelter? These are some of the decisions you will need to make before actually getting your puppy.

No matter where you are going to get your puppy from, you will need to do some research on the different breeds of dogs out there. There are many references on the internet that will provide you with quality information about the different breeds available and their personality and characteristics. You could check your local library. They should have a section of dog related books that can provide you with vast amounts of information. If you know someone who has the type of dog you are considering that would be a great resource as well, they have firsthand knowledge that could prove very useful in your search.

Choosing a dog is a matter of personal taste. What are you looking for in a dog? Are you looking for just a loyal companion or do you need a dog for a particular sport, like hunting. When deciding on your type of dog you should consider your reasons and motivation for wanting a dog. These can drastically affect the type of dog you should get.

Once you have narrowed your decision to your top two or three choices you should begin researching breeders and/or local shelters. If possible adopting an animal from a local shelter is a great decision. You can really make a difference in the life of an animal and get a wonderful pet at the same time. No matter where you choose to get your new dog from you should do some research about the establishment. If they have a website, read some customer referrals, if they are available. That is a great way to learn about their past customers and to see if they were satisfied with their dogs.

Remember choosing a dog is a big decision and should be well researched and thought out, not just rushed into. Today, dogs can live up to 15 years or more so this is not a temporary decision. If you take the time to do your research and planning you will enjoy many happy and healthy years with your new pet.

Choosing A Breeder

administrator@purebredpups.org (purebredpups.org) — Mon, 01 Jan 0001 00:00:00 GMT

So, you have decided to get your new puppy from a breeder. The next step involves locating and researching established breeders. The breeder you choose should be able to answer all of your questions about the dog you have selected and be able to give you helpful advice about raising and training your puppy. A reputable breeder will offer warranties or guarantees as to the health of your puppy and will also accept the puppy back in the case that it does not fit into your family. When choosing a breeder reputation is the most important factor. It should be considered above location, convenience and everything else. You should also be wary of overpriced ads bragging about the champion lines or other key phrases. It is quite possible these are great reputable breeders, just be sure to do your research ahead of time.

When contacting breeders be prepared to answer many questions, most likely personal questions about you, your family, your routine, your lifestyle, etc. Reputable breeders will ask you questions about your family structure, your work hours, the amount of visitors you get, your house and yard layout, your neighborhood location and much more. You should also be prepared for a written questionnaire which can be quite lengthy. If you contact a breeder who does not ask you these types of questions you should probably consider choosing another breeder. Dedicated breeders need to make sure that their puppies are going to loving, devoted homes where they will be well taken care of. Depending on the breed you are seeking it is not uncommon for breeders to have a fairly long waiting list, so be prepared to wait for your puppy, sometimes up to a couple of years.

When selecting a breeder you should also research their past customers. Customers who have previously bought dogs from this breeder are your best indication of the quality of the dog and the breeder. Were these customers satisfied? How is their dog doing today? Did they have any issues with their puppy or the breeder? The answers to these questions should give you a good feeling about the breeder and what your relationship with the breeder will be like even after you bring your new puppy home.

Once you have chosen your top breeder, it is time to visit the perspective litter. Breeders will usually allow perspective owners to visit when the puppies are around five to six weeks old. While there take notice of the environment, where the puppies are being kept, how the parents are treated, etc. Are they raised as part of the family or left in cages all the time? Breeders should spend a significant amount of time with the puppies to socialize them and get them used to human interaction. Well bred puppies are very social making them good companions who want to please their owners.

Choosing your puppy is the most significant decision you will make in this process. You should observe several litters of puppies to learn about their characteristics, behaviors and personalities. Each puppy will have their own distinct personality and behavior. It is important to find one that will compliment you and your family nicely. While observing the litters it is also important to take notice of the health of the puppies. A good, healthy puppy will have a well-fed appearance. The puppy should be firm with a solid feel. The skin on the stomach should be pink, clean and free of signs of irritation or scratching. The puppy should have a clean and healthy overall appearance. Puppies should also be playful and not hide or cower when you approach them. Ideally they should be friendly and approach you wanting to play. Take careful notice of each of the puppys behavior and responses to your actions. This will help you determine the right puppy for you.

Puppies will usually be allowed to go to their new owner when they are 8 weeks of age. Puppies should not leave their mothers before this age because they need to learn certain rules and behaviors from their mother. This learning process usually continues until the puppy is around eight weeks old. Toy breeds are often kept longer, up to 12 weeks, because of their small size. If a breeder is willing to let you take the puppy sooner than that, most likely the breeder is not interested in the overall well-being of the puppy and more interested in getting your money. If that is the case you should not accept the puppy until it has reached this age.

Choosing a reputable breeder is just as important as choosing the actual puppy. Proper research will prove critical as both decisions will have an impact on the well-being and life-long relationship you will have with your new pet.

Shopping for Your New Puppy

administrator@purebredpups.org (purebredpups.org) — Mon, 01 Jan 0001 00:00:00 GMT

So, you have decided to get a new puppy. Before bringing your new puppy home you will need to go shopping to buy supplies for her. While there are many things you can get for your puppy this article highlights the items every puppy owner should have.

You will need to get a crate for her. The crate should be large enough to accommodate your puppy when they become fully grown but not too big as giving them too much room can cause problems in Potty-Training. When housebreaking your puppy it is important not to give them too much room in their crate, this discourages them from relieving themselves in their crate. It is important not to leave puppies in their crate for extended periods of time while they are being potty-trained. They need to be given the opportunity to relieve themselves in the correct location to achieve successful housetraining. Most crates today come with a divider that will allow you to purchase a crate that will be large enough for your puppy when she becomes fully grown yet limit the space for the puppy while she is still small.

You will also need to make sure to have proper bedding for your puppy. A soft mat or blanket should be used to line their new crate. This will give the puppy a comfortable place to sleep and thus make their crate a more welcoming place for them. This bedding will not replace the feeling they had when they were with their littermates, but it will give them a soft warm place to snuggle.

Your new puppy will need plenty of toys and chews also. Puppies go through a teething stage just like babies and thus have a natural need to chew. It is important for them to have the appropriate items to chew on in order to discourage them from chewing on your favorite shoes, walls, carpet, etc. Your new puppy should be supervised with all new toys to determine if they are safe for her. After you feel comfortable that the toys are large enough to not be swallowed and safe for the puppy, he can be allowed to play with the toys with minimal supervision.

You will also need to buy a leash and collar for your puppy. The best choice for puppies is a nylon leash and collar which is both strong enough to withstand chewing, which should be discouraged from the start, and also safe for your puppy. When buying a collar for your puppy you should make sure it is the correct size for them. A correct fitting collar should not be too tight or too loose around your puppy's neck. You should be able to fit one to two fingers between the collar and your puppy's neck. A harness can also be used for small dogs where a correct fitting collar is not available.

You should also purchase food and water bowls for your new puppy. You can choose between the plastic, ceramic and stainless steel variety of bowls. Beware of the plastic bowls if your puppy loves to chew as they are easier to chew. For larger dogs you may want to consider a bowl stand to raise the bowls to a more comfortable position for the dog and help reduce possible bloating.

You will unfortunately need cleaning supplies for your home while your puppy is being housebroken. Accidents will inevitably happen as your puppy does not have control over their bladder and bowels until around 5-6 months of age. Despite this fact, it is still important to use proper housetraining from the start. The earlier you start the easier it will be for your puppy to learn.

Above are many of the basic necessities you will need for raising a puppy. Along the way you are likely to discover that you will need more supplies than just those noted above. You may need grooming supplies, bathing supplies, gates, medication, etc. Remember your puppy is always learning so keep your eye on them and discourage incorrect behavior immediately. With proper training and supervision you will have years of endless fun with your new well behaved puppy.

Bringing Your New Puppy Home

administrator@purebredpups.org (purebredpups.org) — Mon, 01 Jan 0001 00:00:00 GMT

Now that you have picked the puppy that will become your newest family member it is time to bring your new bundle of joy home. It is important to remember that a puppy is just like a new baby. They need very special care, time and attention. If you are not prepared to make this commitment you should think again about getting a puppy. You should prepare your home for the new puppy before bringing him home. Also, make sure you have purchased all of the needed supplies for your new puppy before going to get them. That way everything is ready for them when they arrive.

The most important part of preparing your home is to make sure the puppy has his or her own space. This will help make sure the puppy feels welcome and comfortable in their new home. Remember your puppy has been taken from his mother, family and everything he has known since birth thus it is very important for you to make them feel safe and secure.

You will need to puppy proof your home in order to insure his or her safety. You should make sure that all potential dangers have been eliminated. Puppies are extremely curious and need your help to protect them from potential dangers. Many household items can be very dangerous or even deadly for your new puppy. Household cleaners should be kept out of reach. Electrical cords should be attached to walls or otherwise kept off the floor. The puppy's crate should be placed in an area where she cannot reach anything from inside through the bars.

You also need to make sure that the outside of your house is safe for your puppy. Make sure your fence is secure enough that your puppy cannot escape. Fences should be in good repair, tall enough to contain your puppy and low enough to now allow your puppy to escape underneath. You should be careful with fertilizers, cleaners, other yard chemicals as they are poisonous and could kill your new puppy if he ingests any. If it is winter you also need to be careful of salt for your sidewalk and driveway. Road salt is very dangerous for animals. There is now pet safe salt which can be purchased at your local pet store which would be a great investment for the health and well-being of your puppy. Always have your new puppy on a leash or inside a fenced in area when outside until they learn their boundaries. Puppies love to explore new things so it is very important to keep a close eye on your puppy when he is outside. Be sure to teach them to stay away from the road as thousands of pets are killed each year in car accidents.

Remember your puppy only knows what she has been taught and she is relying on you to keep her safe. Don't let her down. Remember these important rules and you and your new puppy will have a long and happy life together.

First Vet Visit

administrator@purebredpups.org (purebredpups.org) — Mon, 01 Jan 0001 00:00:00 GMT

Congratulations, on your new puppy. Now that you have located the puppy of your dreams and prepared your home and family for her you can relax, right? Not so fast before you kick back and enjoy endless hours of fun with your new puppy it is time to schedule her first vet visit.

This first visit to the vet is a very important one for you both. During this visit your vet will do an overall examination of your puppy and determine if there are any health issues you need to be aware of. It is important to get accurate and complete vaccination records along with your puppy if at all possible. Make sure you bring these records with you to this visit. These records will be the starting point in determining your puppy's vaccination schedule.

Your new puppy will likely have had a series of vaccinations already depending on their age. The common diseases vaccinated against are Distemper(D), Hepatitis(H), Leptospirosis(L), Parainfluenza(P), Parvovirus(P), Rabies, Bordetella, Lyme, Corona and Giardia.

Distemper: Distemper is one of the oldest known canine diseases which can cause severe fever and affect many systems of the body including the gastrointestinal, respiratory and nervous.

Hepatitis: Hepatitis is a viral infection caused by the canine adenovirus type 1 (CAV-1) which can be fatal. Symptoms include fever, loss of appetite, vomiting, diarrhea and jaundice.

Leptospirosis: Leptospirosis is a bacterial infection caused by different forms of Leptospira bacteria which attacks the kidneys, liver and cardiovascular systems. The vaccine commonly used does not protect against all strains of the virus.

Parainfluenza: Parainfluenza attacks the upper respiratory system and is a component of kennel cough.

Parvovirus: Parvovirus attacks the lining of the small intestine and can infect the heart of very young puppies. Symptoms include loss of appetite, severe vomiting and bloody diarrhea. Parvo is spread through the stool of affected dogs.

Rabies: Rabies is a fatal neurologic disease transmitted through the bite of an infected animal.

Bordetella: The Bordetella vaccine commonly referred to as Kennel Cough is a tracheobronchitis resulting in a dry cough. In severe cases it can escalate into pneumonia.

Lyme: Lyme is spread by deer ticks and causes fever, lethargy, joint swelling, lameness and swollen lymph nodes. The vaccination is not 100% effective in preventing Lyme disease but can mask the outward symptoms making it harder to diagnose.

Corona: Corona is a gastrointestinal disease which may increase the effects of Parvo if the dog has that as well. On its own Corona is not a problem. Dogs typically do not need to be vaccinated against this disease.

Giardia: Giardia is a protozoal parasite typically spread through drinking contaminated water. Symptoms include diarrhea. This vaccine is typically not recommended for dogs.

A typical vaccination schedule would likely require the following:

At 7- 8 weeks of age: First Puppy Shot (DHLPP)

At 11 - 12 weeks of age: Second Puppy Shot (DHLPP)

At 15 - 16 weeks of age: Third Puppy Shot (DHLPP)

Over 16 weeks of age: First Rabies Vaccination will be given.

At 7 - 9 months: Your puppy should have their first Heartworm test.

Every year after your dog will need to go in for an annual check-up at which time you should discuss your dogs vaccination schedule with your vet. According to the American Animal Hospital Association dogs should get a rabies and distemper booster 1 year after their last puppy shot and then every 3 years thereafter.

Many of the other vaccines are not needed on an annual basis. A new study of Titer Testing is becoming popular where levels can be checked in your dog to see if they actually require a booster or not. If you are interested in this option you should consult your veterinarian. The needed vaccines and schedule can depend on your dog's breed, location and city, state or county regulations, so please consult your veterinarian if you have any questions or concerns.

Introducing Your Puppy

administrator@purebredpups.org (purebredpups.org) — Mon, 01 Jan 0001 00:00:00 GMT

Now, it is finally time to bring your new puppy home. This is a very important event in your puppy's life, after all this is the first time she will meet her new family. It is understandable that you and your family will be very excited about this occasion, but it is also important to keep this event as low key as possible so that you do not overwhelm or scare your new puppy. She is likely to be scared already from the sudden change of surroundings, the car ride, and the fact that this is the first time she has been away from her mother and littermates.

It is important not to let too many people approach her at once. Start introducing her to each person individually by talking to her with soft soothing words and gentle petting. Let her get to know each person individually and give them some time to start their bond. After the introductions are finished, put your puppy down and let her explore her new home. Be sure you keep a very close eye on her during her little adventure as puppies are very curious creatures and love to get into things. It is very important to teach them right from wrong as early as possible and this first adventure is a great starting point.

After all of this excitement it is likely that your new puppy will be ready for a nap. Puppies require a lot of sleep for the first several months as they are still growing. Try putting her in her new crate to sleep. It is important for her to get used to her new crate after all this will be her new bedroom. It is important to build a comfort and understanding about the crate with your puppy. She needs to feel safe to enter and exit her crate on her own. A properly crate-trained puppy will enjoy going into their crate when they want to rest or just be alone for a few minutes. Crates should not be used as a form of punishment or used to scare the puppy that will severely hamper your chances of crate-training. Have no fear there will be more about crate training discussed in a future article.

By now it getting late and soon bedtime will be approaching and the next new adventure will begin, your puppy's first night away from her mother.

First Night in a New Home

administrator@purebredpups.org (purebredpups.org) — Mon, 01 Jan 0001 00:00:00 GMT

Now, that the first day with your new puppy is drawing to a close it is time to start your next adventure together, the pup's first night away from his mother and siblings. This first night in his new home is a very important one for you and your new puppy. This night will set the tone for all nights to come. You will need to decide on a location for you puppy to sleep during the night. This can be in your room with you or another small room, kitchen, laundry room, etc. Ideally, if his is not going to sleep in your room then you should put him in the location where you plan to keep him during the day when you are gone.

You should remove all food and water bowls a few hours before you plan to go to bed or otherwise you may be making frequent trips outside all night long. Make sure you play with him for a while to tire him out before putting him to bed. Try not to allow him to nap any right before bedtime. You want him to be tired enough to sleep soundly all night long. Then you should make sure you allow your puppy ample time to do his duty before putting him to bed.

After he is finished put him into his crate or bed for the night. It has been recommended by some breeders to place a piece of bedding from his former home or if not possible a piece of your clothing, maybe a sock or a small blanket or towel with your scent on it in his bed to comfort him throughout the night. Others recommend placing a hot water bottle in bed with him to give him something soft and warm to cuddle with. This would take the place of him cuddling with his mother and littermates during the night. This is not recommended for heavy chewers or you may have a flood to cleanup in the morning.

It is inevitable that your puppy will whine for a little while. This is normal as your puppy is used to having his mother and littermates to snuggle with during the night. You can put your hand on the bars of his crate so he can sniff your fingers and that should console him enough to eliminate the whining. Be strong and he will eventually fall asleep.

If he has slept for a few hours and wakes up crying it is likely that he has to go potty and that is his way of telling you. If this occurs you should take him out immediately. He has let you know he needs to go potty and that is a great start when it comes to potty-training. If he goes potty, give him lots of praise so he will know that he has done something good and will continue to let you know when he needs to go potty. You should then place him back into his crate for the rest of the night. If he whines again repeat the procedure. It is likely for the first few weeks that he may need to go out a couple of time during the night.

In the morning, take your puppy out immediately. You should carry him to the place where he is supposed to relieve himself. Puppies have to go potty immediately upon waking up and this is a great time to work on potty-training. Once he goes give him praise to reinforce this habit.

Now, that your puppy has been through his first night in his new home, it should be easier in the following nights. It is important to stand your ground and let your puppy learn the bedtime routine. It may seem cruel at first, but you and your family including your new puppy will thank you in the long run for lots of sleep filled nights.

Socializing Your Puppy

administrator@purebredpups.org (purebredpups.org) — Mon, 01 Jan 0001 00:00:00 GMT

Puppies are born not knowing anything about the world in which they live in. As a new puppy parent it is your responsibility to help them learn about their surroundings in a safe and secure way. Socializing a puppy properly will cut down on many behavioral problems that may otherwise occur later in life. Adult dogs that have not been exposed to a wide variety of dogs, people and environments can become fearful or aggressive as they mature. Avoiding this by exposing your puppy to as many new experiences as you can is much better than dealing with it after the fact. Behavioral problems, especially aggression, are one of the top reasons dogs are turned in to shelters.

When should I socialize my puppy?
Puppies have a critical socialization period between 8 to 16 weeks of age. This is the ideal time to bring a puppy into its new home. During this time they are maturing very quickly and learning about their new home and surroundings. While this is a very important time to socialize your puppy during this time do not stop altogether at 16 weeks of age. Proper socialization should continue the entire life of the dog.

How do I socialize My Puppy?
Puppies should be introduced to as many new people, animals and environments as possible during this time. These introductions should always be safe and positive experiences for the pup. A bad experience, such as another dog growling or attacking them, can also be extremely harmful for their progress so be sure to socialize them with other dogs who are well-socialized themselves.

Enrolling your dog in a puppy class with a reputable, positive reinforcement trainer during this time is one of the best ways to work on socialization. The pup will get experience in a new environment with new dogs and people. You will also learn many valuable lessons to help you throughout the puppy's life.

Taking the puppy to the store, out for walks, for car rides or to visit friends and family is another great way to socialize them. Avoid places with lots of dogs, like dog parks until the pup has had all of their needed vaccinations.

What if I have an adult dog that wasn't properly socialized?

If you adopted an older dog or missed this critical socialization period don't beat yourself up too bad. While you can't get this time back and your dog may never be fully adjusted to new experiences and environments you can always start a socialization routine right now. It will be much harder for the dog especially if they are truly fearful or have already begun to show signs of aggression but the sooner you start the better. If your dog is extremely fearful or aggressive you should consult a qualified trainer in your area.

You begin socializing an adult dog much like a puppy. Take them as many places as you can and introduce them to as many new people and dogs as possible. Always make sure these are positive experiences and be careful not to overdo it. Adult dogs, depending on the age, may not be as receptive to all of these new experiences as a puppy.

Socialization Tips

Take your puppy for walks every day in your neighborhood. Gradually progress to walking in other neighborhoods or parks.

Take your puppy for a short car ride several times a week. As they become accustomed to this gradually increase the length of the trips.

Take your puppy to stores like Pet Smart or Petco or other pet-friendly locations in your area.

Invite friends and family over to visit. This will not only give your dog time for socialization but if you have understanding guests you can also work on door-training.

Take your puppy with you when you go to visit friends or family. Of course make sure this is okay with them ahead of time.

Take your puppy to a dog park or join a play group when they are old enough.

Never stop socializing them! Many dogs do fine as puppies and then if socialization is not kept up they will regress.

It may be hard at first, but by properly socializing your puppy at a young age you will be blessed with years of fun with your well-behaved companion. Good luck with your new task of socializing your puppy.

Feeding Your Dog

administrator@purebredpups.org (purebredpups.org) — Mon, 01 Jan 0001 00:00:00 GMT

Keeping your puppy or adult dog healthy is an important yet complex task. There are many aspects to consider when caring for your dog. Food and nutrition is just one of these areas. Puppies and adult dogs both need to have a proper balance of vitamins and nutrients to keep their immune system functioning properly and help fight off sickness.

Making sure your dog gets the proper amount of food with the right nutrients for their size, age and breed is very important. There are 3 commercial types of dog food that have been around for years and a couple of relatively new types of food that have just become popular recently. Dry, semi-moist and canned are the three most common types of dog food available and have been around since the 1850s. The Raw Food and Home Cooked Diets are relatively new when compared to these.

Barf (Biologically Approved Raw Food or Bones and Raw Food) is a relatively new type of food to hit the market in the past few years. BARF of was developed by Dr. Ian Billinghurst. It contains a mixture of raw meaty bones, raw vegetables, raw offal (entrails&internal organs) along with other supplements. This food usually comes in the shape of patties much like our frozen hamburgers. It can either be served whole or broken up into smaller bite-size pieces, depending on your dog's needs. This is a growing diet alternative that is supported by the fact that its ingredients more closely resemble the natural food that dogs have historically eaten throughout the years. In some cases dogs are actually allergic to the grain and preservatives that are present in today's commercial dog foods. This new type of food presents a great alternative for these dogs.

However, there are some downsides to this type of food. For one, it has a very short shelf life when compared to the other types of dog food. Freezing the food may extend the shelf life a little but it is still considerably shorter that the dry, semi-moist or canned food options. This type of food also poses some risk of bacterial diseases like are found in human foods like Salmonella and E-coli although these risks can be greatly minimized by properly handling of the food.

Another relatively newly accepted type of feeding is Home-Cooked or Home-Prepared meals for your dog. This typically consists of cooking meats, vegetables, rice and other natural foods that are safe for your dogs into a meal for this. There are tons of recipes available if you are interested in this type of feeding.

When choosing a brand of food for your dog it is important to read the packaging carefully to see what ingredients are in the food. A good brand of dog food will have whole meat as one of the first two ingredients followed by a specific type of meat by-products or meal and preferably whole grains and/or vegetables. Be wary of a food that just lists meat by-products as one of the ingredients this could contain almost anything.

Reading the label on dog food packaging is just like reading labels on human food. The ingredients are listed in order of the percentage contained in the food. This means that the first ingredient listed will be the most prevalent in the food and the last ingredient listed will be the least prevalent. So, it is extremely important to find high-quality ingredients like whole meats, grains and vegetables high in the list. Be careful of ingredient splitting which is common in pet foods. This means that they actually list the same ingredient under two different but similar names. This allows that ingredient, which is usually a poor quality ingredient to fall farther down the list.

Just like people, dogs go through different stages of their life that require different nutrients to keep them healthy. The length and timing of these stages depends on the size and breed of your dog. On average dogs are considered puppies until around 1 year of age. It is important to read the manufacturers label to determine the proper feeding requirements and amounts for your dog. Feeding frequency is another thing you need to consider. This refers to the amount of times per day you feed your dog. It is recommended that puppies have 2-3 meals per day because of their high level of activity and growing bodies. The frequent feeding will ensure they have adequate nutrients all day long. As your dog gets older you can limit them to 1 or 2 meals per day. Typically smaller dogs, like puppies, are able to eat less at one time and need 2 meals per day to get an adequate amount of food. If you need further assistance in determining the correct feeding instructions for your exact dog, consult your dog's veterinarian. Remember when switching your dog's food to do it gradually to avoid upsetting their stomach and digestive track.

Changing Your Dog's Food

administrator@purebredpups.org (purebredpups.org) — Mon, 01 Jan 0001 00:00:00 GMT

Healthy nutrition is a very important part of your dog's life. Switching the food your dog is eating is a part of this. Should you need to switch the food you are feeding your dog, it must be done carefully to keep your dog healthy. Dogs in general, have very sensitive stomachs and digestive systems. This is especially true with puppies and small dogs.

When you bring a new dog home it is recommended that you do not switch their food for at least a few days. They are already undergoing enough stress with the move and getting used to their new surroundings keeping them on the same diet will help alleviate another source of stress. You should always make sure you get enough food with your new dog or puppy to last at least 3 days, longer would be better. If your new dog or puppy was already eating a high quality dog food then it may not be necessary to switch what they are being fed.

If you determine that you need to switch the food your dog is currently eating it should be done so in a careful matter. Switching foods should be done gradually as to not upset the dog's stomach or digestive system. You should start by mixing a little of the new food in with the dog's current food at each meal. Gradually increase the amount of the new food you mix in with each feeding, while reducing the amount of the old food. After a couple of days the mixture should contain almost all new food and barely any of the dog's old food. Finally, you can eliminate the old food entirely and feed your dog only the new food.

By gradually making the switch, you should minimize the likelihood of an upset stomach or other ill effects from the new food. Remember this process needs to be followed any time you need to change your dog's food. It should also be noted that changing your dog's diet should be done minimally, only when absolutely necessary.

Providing Water for Your Dog

administrator@purebredpups.org (purebredpups.org) — Mon, 01 Jan 0001 00:00:00 GMT

Water is another very important part of a dog's health and nutrition. Much like our own bodies, a dog's body requires ample amounts of water to keep the tissue properly hydrated and aid with digestion as well as tissue growth and repair. It is important to have clean, cool water available for your dog at least at mealtime and several other times throughout the day. Leaving a dish of fresh clean water that is always accessible by your dog is the best option.

It is important to use high-quality, filtered or bottled water for your puppy at least for the first few weeks after bringing him home. Puppies have very sensitive systems and some cannot handle the chlorine and chemicals added to our filtered tap water. These chemicals may cause gastrointestinal tract irritation which may lead to diarrhea and dehydration. After your puppy has been home a few weeks you may begin the switch to tap water if necessary. This switch should be done gradually by mixing the purified or bottled water with tap water and gradually decreasing the amount of purified water used over the course of a few days. If possible, giving your dogs filtered drinking water whether from a bottle, filtered pitcher or filtered faucet is still the best option.

During house-training access to water may be limited to specific times throughout the day. Putting your puppy on a strict food and water schedule will aid in house-training the puppy. Puppies can be very active at times and it is important to keep a close watch on them and make sure they get a chance to drink after periods of increased exercise or playing. Dogs pant to cool themselves which causes their bodies to lose moisture which can lead to dehydration if not given ample water.

After your puppy becomes an adult proper water is still an important part of their continued health. When giving your dog water it is important to provide it in a clean bowl that should be washed daily. Dogs should never be allowed to drink from puddles, pools, flowerpots, etc. This water may contain fertilizers, herbicides, pesticides or other chemicals that may harm your dog. Some diseases such as Leptospirosis can also be caused by drinking from contaminated puddles. Following these simple guidelines can give you a happy, healthy dog.

Choosing Your Puppy

administrator@purebredpups.org (purebredpups.org) — Mon, 01 Jan 0001 00:00:00 GMT

Once you have decided to get a puppy and determined where you will be getting your new puppy from, it is time to choose your puppy. Depending on where you decided to get your puppy, you should be able to have a say in which puppy becomes yours. If you are getting your puppy from a breeder you should be able to choose your puppy from the available litter, provided not all of them are already spoken for. It is also possible that the breeder may determine which puppy will be the best for each perspective owner and that is the puppy you will receive. This is not a very common scenario but one you should be aware of.

If you are getting your puppy from a pet store or shelter the process will be a little different. When adopting a dog from an animal shelter you will most likely have to fill out an application for the dog or puppy you want to adopt and the shelter will determine if you are able to adopt that dog. Some shelters run extensive checks to try to make sure every dog goes to a good and loving home. It can be a time consuming process but that is how they protect the animals they place. If you decide to get your new puppy from a pet store you should be able to choose from any of the available puppies. Pet stores typically do not do any background checking or have a waiting period like shelters do. Be sure to do your research as many well know Pet Stores get their dog from Puppy Mills.

If you do get to choose your puppy from a litter it is important to observe the puppies closely for a while to determine their personality and how they interact with each other. Each puppy will have their own distinct personality and characteristics. It is important to find one that will compliment you and your family nicely. You should also remember when observing the puppies that the most playful puppy at the time you visited may not be the most playful puppy all the time. It may be that he/she just woke up from a nap and is full of energy while the others are tired right now. It is important to discuss the puppies and what you are looking for in your puppy with the breeder, owner or shelter worker to determine the best puppy for you. The same thing is true if you are adopting an adult dog as they each have their own personality as well. You need to be sure they will fit into your family before you take them home.

While observing the litter, it is also important to take notice of the health of the puppies. A good, healthy puppy will have a well-fed appearance with a firm solid feel to them. The skin on the stomach should be pink, clean and free of signs of irritation or scratching. The coat should be clean and shiny. Their eyes should be bright and eyes. The puppy should not have any sign of nasal discharge as this can be a sign of a serious disease like distemper or parvovirus. In general, the puppy should have a clean and healthy overall appearance.

After observing the puppies for a while and narrowing your choice down to one or two of them, it is now time to hold and interact with your top choices. During your interaction pay close attention to how the puppy reacts to being taken away from his mother and siblings. The puppy should be playful when on the ground but calm and affectionate when in your arms. The puppy should have a curious and confident demeanor about him. These are good indicators if the puppy has been properly socialized or not. Try making a clapping noise to see how the puppy reacts. The puppy should look and move in the direction of the noise. This little test will show if the puppy is scared or curious about their surroundings and also if they can hear properly. You should be wary of puppies that look or act timid, cower or run away from people. This is an excellent indication that the puppy has not been properly socialized. Un or under socialized puppies can make wonderful loving pets but are usually harder to train and can have behavioral problems later in life. It is important to discuss your needs and concerns with the breeder or person responsible for the puppy.

If purchasing your puppy from a breeder it is a good idea to request to see the parents of the litter. You will be able to tell a lot from the health and appearance of the parents. It is also a good idea to ask the breeder for any pictures he or she may have of previous litters from these two parents. Most breeders will try to keep in touch with the owner of their previous puppies and should have some pictures to show you. This will give you a good indication of how your puppy will be when he/she matures.

While a puppy's color and sex may be important to you, don't let it be the deciding factor in choosing your new puppy. A puppy's temperament and characteristics are the most important factor in choosing a puppy that will fit into your family and be a wonderful long-term companion. Choosing a healthy and happy puppy will be an important step in ensuring you a long and loving relationship with your new companion.

Potty Training Your Puppy

administrator@purebredpups.org (purebredpups.org) — Mon, 01 Jan 0001 00:00:00 GMT

Potty training your new puppy can be very daunting task. It is much like potty training a child. You have to teach them where it is and isn't appropriate to relieve themselves. Puppies are not born knowing that they are only allowed to relieve themselves in certain places. It is your job to teach them this.

It is important to be patient with your puppy as they typically do not have full control of their bladders until around 6 months of age. This is not to say you should not start teaching them until then, in fact if you wait until then you will have a much harder time getting them to learn. Just realize that while your puppy may seem to have gotten the hang of it one day, the next they may have an accident or two. It is very common for potty training to progress in stages like this.

It is important for you to be calm if your puppy does have an accident and never rub their nose in it or punish them after the fact, they will not understand why you are doing it. The most effective way to teach a puppy is to catch them in the act and make a noise to get their attention. Then scoop them up and immediately take them outside or to the proper location for them to go potty. Use a keyword or phrase such as "GoPotty", "Potty" or whatever word or words you choose to use. Just be consistent with this. Always use the same word and dont use this word to mean anything else to your puppy. Your dog will learn what this means like any other command you teach them and associate their behavior with that word, so choose wisely.

Accidents will definitely occur and when they do clean them up promptly using a strong enzymatic cleaner. This will help to remove all of the smell, discouraging your puppy from going in that location again. If the puppy's smell remains in the carpet or on the floor he will smell that and assume it is okay for them to go there again.

There are several popular methods for Housebreaking your puppy. You can try Crate Training which is where your puppy is kept in a crate or possibly a very small gated off portion of a room whenever you are gone or cannot keep a direct eye on him. With this method your puppy should have just enough space for them to get up and turn around. Typically puppies do not want to soil where they sleep so by limiting their space they are less likely to have an accident in their crate. It is important to teach them that the crate is a safe location for them and should never be used for punishment.

If you work long hours and cannot get home to let your puppy out during the day, you should give you puppy a little more space allowing them to have a bed or blanket to sleep on, their food and water dish and some newspapers or a puppy pad to potty on. It is just unrealistic and unhealthy to expect your small puppy to hold their bladder for more than about 4 to 5 hours at a time. It may be a good idea to find a dog walker or dog sitter if you are gone all day and cannot make it home to let your puppy out.

There also any number of other devices that you can get to allow your dog to potty while you are away. We recommend a device called the WizDog. It is a plastic tray where you place newspaper or a puppy pad and then a plastic grate goes over that to keep the dog from walking directly on the soiled pad or shredding it like puppies love to do. If you have a small dog permanently training them to go indoors is a viable option. If you have a larger dog this will work great while they are puppies or on occasions when you know you have to be gone extra long but is most likely not a great permanent option.

Once you have your puppy trained to always go in a certain location, changing the location where they go is much less difficult. You should not change your puppy's potty routine until they have a handle on it and are accident free. Once that occurs, you can gradually move the puppy pad or other device to another location if desired. To get your puppy to go outside gradually move the pad toward the door where you take them out. Once they are successfully going on the pad near the door you can try taking them outside. If necessary place a pad outside the door at first to get them used to going outside.

During potty training, it is important to feed your puppy on a set schedule as they typically have to go 30 minutes after eating. Take your puppy out promptly 30 minutes after they eat to give them a chance to relieve themselves. To help your puppy learn, you should get him on a routine and always take him outside through the same door.

You should also take them out immediately after returning home or letting them out of their crate. If your puppy gets easily excited and has accidents on their way outside it may help to pick them up and carry them out as quickly as possible. Your puppy may not go every time you take them out but it is important to give them the opportunity. When your puppy does go, promptly give him lots of praise and a treat.

Potty training your new puppy can be a very frustrating and difficult task, but it will pay off in the end. With some puppies it can take a while for them to learn. The more patient and consistent you are the better it will be.

Brushing Your Dog's Teeth

administrator@purebredpups.org (purebredpups.org) — Mon, 01 Jan 0001 00:00:00 GMT

Brushing your dog's teeth is a very important part of their overall health and happiness. Just like humans, if a dog has dental issues it can cause problems with other parts of the body. With all the advances in dog health and wellness, it is extremely important to make sure your dog's Dental Health is kept up as well.

So, how do you begin brushing your dog's teeth? It is important to remember this should be a learning process at first. You cannot expect the dog to just open their mouth and say 'ah' the first time you present the brush. It may take several days, weeks or months for your dog to be comfortable with you brushing their teeth depending on their age, sensitivity, etc.

First, you should take a trip to your local pet store and pick up a Dog Toothbrush and Toothpaste. Dog toothpaste comes in a variety of flavors that your dog will love including poultry, beef and peanut. There are also several different types of brushes available. One of the most common is a long handled brush with large bristles on one end and smaller ones on the other. There is also a finger brush that you slip on over your finger with small bristles on one side. Be sure to choose a brush that fits the size of your dog's mouth. There are many other types as well depending on your store's selection, but one of those two types should generally work best.

** It is important not to use human toothpaste to brush your Dog's teeth. Dogs have no way of spitting out the toothpaste like we do and human toothpaste should not be swallowed. **

Now that you have the necessities you are ready to begin actually brushing your dog's teeth. Find a nice quiet, comfortable location in which to sit with your dog. It is important to always sit in the same location while you are teaching them. Dogs have a tendency to learn a routine quickly and this will help them learn.

The first few attempts may not go as well as you hope but don't get discouraged. It is best to start this routine as soon as possible. If you have a puppy start today! If your dog is not used to you putting your finger in their mouth this would be a good place to start. Carefully put your finger in their mouth along the outside of the teeth. Gently rub your finger along all the teeth on both sides of the mouth. If this goes well you can try putting a little paste on your finger and repeating the process. If this step does not go well, stop for a while and try the process again later.

It may take a few days for your dog to get comfortable with this process. It is important to never progress until your dog is first comfortable with the current step. Next, try putting a little paste on the brush and repeat the process of gently rubbing the outside of the dog's teeth. Don't try to open the dog's mouth too wide, most dogs won't like this and it will make them fight against you. ypically the inside of the dog's teeth don't get too much tarter and build up, so focus mainly on the outside of them especially the canines and the back teeth where the majority of the tarter forms.

Make sure while your dog is learning this process to quit each session before they start to fuss and fight. Once they do it will be hard to continue and if you quit they will associate that behavior with making you stop and it will be more difficult the next time.

If done properly brushing your dog's teeth can be an easy and enjoyable task that only takes a couple of minutes. Typically you should brush your dog's teeth 2 to 4 times a week, the more the better of course. Couple this with the proper dental chews and other health routines and you will have a happy and healthy dog for years to come.

Holiday Safety for your Dog

administrator@purebredpups.org (purebredpups.org) — Mon, 01 Jan 0001 00:00:00 GMT

The Holiday Season is a very fun and exciting time for everyone. It is a time for decorating, traveling and spending time with friends and family. With all of this going on we sometimes forget that this time of the year can be stressful and even dangerous for our dogs. Here is a list of tips and reminders to help ensure your dog's health and safety during the Holiday Season.

Trees

If you have a real Christmas tree, be sure to keep the water in the stand covered as pine sap and water can be poisonous to your dog.

The outdoor smell of a live tree can cause your dog to want to urine mark. To avoid this behavior, bring the tree inside to a location where your dog does not go a few days before putting it up. This will allow some of the smell to leave so it will be less imposing to your dog.

If you have a playful dog or puppy, be sure to keep the tree off the ground or put unbreakable ornaments near the bottom in case your puppy decides they look like fun toys to play with.

Make sure your tree is secured to a wall or ceiling to prevent it from falling onto your dog should they decide to jump on it. This can be done with a sturdy cable or fishing line.

Be sure to vacuum any fallen pine needles daily as they can puncture holes in a dog's intestine if ingested.

Decorations

Be sure to pick up any ornaments, hooks, tinsel, ribbon, etc immediately if they are dropped. They can cause serious internal injury if ingested by your dog.

Should an ornament or other decoration break, be sure to clean it up right away. If your dog was in the area, be sure to check their paws as sharp pieces can become imbedded in their paws.

Make sure any lights are hung out of reach of your dog to ensure they do not become entangled in them. Tape or secure excess cords out of reach as they can look like 'toys' to your dog and can cause electrical shock if chewed.

Unplug all holiday decorations when you are not home.

Be sure to supervising your dog around the tree and decorations.

Be sure to keep your dog away from any candles. Before lighting one make sure it is in a safe location on a high table or counter. NEVER leave an unattended candle burning with an unsupervised dog. They can not only hurt themselves but possibly start a fire.

Be careful when putting out Snow Globes as many contain antifreeze, which is EXTREMELY poisonous to dogs.

Many Holiday plants, especially Holly, Poinsettias, Mistletoe and Lilies are poisonous to dogs. Be sure to keep them out of your dog's reach. Call your veterinarian immediately if your dog ingests any of these plants.

Avoid snow sprays and other toxic decorations that can be eaten or inhaled by your dog.

Cooking&Sweets

Be sure to keep holiday treats and goodies out of your dog's reach. Sugary holiday sweets, especially Chocolate can make your dog extremely sick or even lead to the death.

Gifts

Pick up children's toys after opening gifts. Dogs can see small pieces as toys or treats. They are a common cause of choking and intestinal blockage in dogs which may require surgery to remove.

Be sure to keep any wrapped food gifts up and don't put them under your tree. Your dog will be able to smell them and may be tempted to find them.

Parties&Guests

Holidays can be stressful for your dogs as well. Having a houseful of guests can be very stressful and frightening for dogs especially if they are not used to guests. This can lead to illness and intestinal upset, so be sure if you are planning a Holiday party to make sure your dog has a nice quiet location to go while the guests are there.

Be sure to keep your dog away from the door when guests are entering and leaving so they do not escape. Also, be sure they have their collar and ID tags on before any guests arrive just in case they do get out.

Be sure to instruct your guests not to feed your dog any food. Many people do not realize the danger in feeding dogs certain foods.

Travel

If you are planning on traveling with your dog for the holidays, be sure to get them accustomed to the car prior to taking a long trip.

Holiday travel can be stressful for your dog, be sure to take plenty of their toys, food, water, bed, etc with you to make them feel at home.

Buckle your dog up when in the car. It is just as important to protect your dog. Dogs are just as at risk, if not more so, of being seriously injured or killed in a vehicle accident. Get a Car Seat or Harness for your dog before traveling with them.

Outdoor Safety

Salt used on Sidewalks and roads is extremely harmful to your dog. Always clean your dog's paws after being exposed to salt to keep them from ingesting it when licking their paws.

Outdoor cords and decorations can be just as dangerous as indoor ones. Be sure to keep outdoor decorations and cords out of reach of your dog or supervise them when outside.

Spring Time Safety for your Dog

administrator@purebredpups.org (purebredpups.org) — Mon, 01 Jan 0001 00:00:00 GMT

As the weather improves it is once again time to start those Spring-time activities around your yard and house. During this time it is important to remember your four-legged friends and pay close attention to the items you use as spring-time can bring lots of dangers to our pets.

Toxic Plants - It is extremely important to read labels and do your research before planting anything that will be within reach of your dog. There are many plants and flowers that are toxic to dogs and other pets including: Azaleas, Begonia, Bleeding Heart, Caladium, Calla Lily, Cherry Tree, Chrysanthemum, Clematis, Cyclamen, Daffodil, Foxglove, Heavenly Bamboo, Holly Berries, Hyacinth Bulbs, Hydrangea, Iris, Lilies, Morning Glory, Mushrooms, Oleander, Peach Tree, Plum Tree, Rhododendron, Toadstools, Tulips and Yew. This is by no means a comprehensive list so be sure to read product labels and consult your veterinarian if you have questions regarding the safety of a specific plant or flower. It is a good idea to discourage dogs from eating or nibbling on any household or garden plant as some are not considered toxic but can cause an upset stomach.

Mulch - Certain types of mulch, especially Cocoa Mulch are extremely toxic to dogs. Cocoa Mulch is made from Cocoa Bean Shells and like other chocolate products contains high levels of Theobromine a substance that is extremely toxic to dogs. The sweet smell of this mulch will invite your dog to eat some causing severe health concerns or death.

Fertilizers&Herbicides - A nice lush lawn is something we would all love to have, unfortunately many of the products that help us achieve this are dangerous to our pets. Fertilizers can cause gastro-intestinal upset, vomiting, excess salivation, skin irritation and other central nervous system issues or death if ingested. If you must use chemicals on the lawn be sure to take the proper precautions to ensure the safety of your pets.

Make sure to clear the area of any pet items before applying any chemical to your lawn, this includes food&water bowls, toys, dog houses or anything else your dog will have access to after the chemical has been applied.

Keep your dog and other pets inside while the chemicals are being applied to the lawn and for at least 24 hours after the treatment is completed and possibly longer depending on the product's instructions.

It is important to thoroughly wash your dog's feet with soap and warm water if they do come in contact with a freshly treated area. Remember this does not include just your own lawn. If you take your dog for a walk during the spring it is a good idea to keep them out of other's yards as you never know what they may have put on their lawn. Even sidewalks are not entirely safe as many times homeowners end up getting fertilizer and other chemicals on the sidewalk during application to the lawn.

Be sure to store any unused chemicals in air-tight containers somewhere that your pets do not have access to.

Insects&Pesticides - Spring time also brings other dangers. Insects can cause illnesses in dogs and chemicals like, Pesticides to help prevent such insects bring a whole other list of concerns.

Pesticides like Fertilizers and Herbicides can be very toxic to dogs. This includes Tree Sprays, Garden Dusts, Foggers and other types of bug repellents. It is important to keep dogs off treated areas and away from open containers. Again, feet should be washed thoroughly if they do come in contact with this type of chemical.

Stings&Bites - We all know how annoying insects can be on our own spring-time plans but insects can be downright dangerous to dogs who don't understand what they are and like to chase things. Many dogs try to catch or swat at such insects and end up getting bitten or stung. If you see your dog scratching or rubbing it's head on the ground or you find a bump or swelling it may be that your dog has been stung by a bee. If you do find a stinger in your dog, remove it promptly with tweezers and apply a cold compress to the affected area. Some dogs, like humans, are actually allergic to bee stings and should seek veterinary treatment immediately.

Ticks - Ticks pose yet another concern for pet owners. Once the weather reaches 40 degrees ticks become active and start feeding. Lyme disease is becoming more prevalent in the US every year. In fact, it is now a concern in nearly every state with April to November being the highest risk months. It is a very good idea to get a Lyme Disease Vaccination for your dog if you live in one of these areas.

Fleas - Fleas are yet another concern for dog owners as they can cause severe skin irritation and extreme allergic reactions in many dogs. There are many types of Fleas preventives and treatments available including flea collars, baths, etc. If using one of these products, be sure to read the product instructions very carefully and never use more than one product at the same time as this may cause more harm to your dog. Never use cat products on dogs or vice-versa as the ingredients in both are specifically develop for that species and may harm the other. If you believe your dog has fleas, consult your vet for more information about the proper course of action.

Mosquitoes - These pesky insects can carry heartworm which is one of the major health concerns in dogs causing severe heart and lung damage. All dogs should be on a Heartworm preventative year round and annual testing is recommended. A dog needs to be tested for an existing heartworm condition prior to starting a heartworm preventative as it can be fatal if to the dog if they already have Heartworm.

Holidays - With Easter right in the middle of the season it is also important to remember that many of the items we enjoy for the Holiday are deadly to dogs. Everyone loves those chocolate bunnies that are so popular around this time of the year but remember that Chocolate is Poisonous to dogs. The plastic grass that accompanies those bunnies in our Easter baskets can also be extremely harmful to dogs if ingested. That huge Easter feast can be very tasty for you but remember that table scraps can cause many health problems in dogs including Pancreatitis and death.

Home Improvement Projects - During the spring we also like to do a good spring cleaning and make other improvements around the house. It is important to keep household cleaners, paints, stains and other solvents away from your pets. Decks and other items made from pressure treated wood should be sealed every 2 years to keep in the toxic chemicals in and away from your dogs. Dogs should not be allowed to lie on or play under such decks as those chemicals can be present in the soil underneath them.

Vacationing - Taking pets with on vacations or outdoor excursions can be fun but you have to remember their safety as well. Swimming can be a favorite pastime of many dogs not to mention a great form of exercise. Care should be taken to keep dogs away from recreational vehicles including jet skis and boats. It is also recommended that dogs receive a bath after swimming in such an environment as fuels from these vehicles can leak into the water and get in the dogs coat. The dogs in turn try to clean their coat and ingest these harmful chemicals. The same goes with swimming in pools treated with Chlorine. If taking your dog on a fishing trip, make sure they stay away from lines, hooks and lures which may look like great fun to them but can prove very dangerous.

Landscaping&Composting - Metal lawn edging is actually a common cause of foot injuries to dogs if it is not rounded or properly covered. If you have a compost pile make sure it is enclosed by a fence or other type of container and kept away from your dog's area as they often contain some of the elements listed above that are harmful to dogs.

Other Harmful Chemicals - Slug and Snail killing pellets should never be spread in areas accessible to your dogs. These tasty pellets are extremely poisonous. If you must use such a product be sure to use a pellet holder or other type of bait trap. While you are removing those Rodent poisons and mouse traps used during the winter remember that they are also very toxid to dogs.

Signs of Poisoning - Symptoms can include lethargy, labored, shallow or rapid breathing, pawing at the mouth or holding it open, bleeding from the nose, increased salivation, frequent swallowing, increased thirst, watering of the nose or eyes, dilated pupils, blindness, apprehension, diarrhea, vomiting, pain when urinating, blood in the feces, shivering, convulsions, uncoordinated movements, tremors, weak or irregular heartbeat, high or low body temperature, or swings in temperature. These are some common symptoms which can vary depending on the amount and item ingested by the dog.

Loose-Leash Walking

administrator@purebredpups.org (purebredpups.org) — Mon, 01 Jan 0001 00:00:00 GMT

With the weather warming up it is now the time that most of us start taking those long daily walks with our dog again. Even the most well-trained dog may have forgotten their proper walking etiquette if they havent done it for quite a few months over the winter. So, how do you teach your dog to walk nicely beside you without pulling you down the sidewalk? This can be one of the hardest things to teach a dog, even harder than potty-training as it goes against their natural urge to run when they get outside.

The key is to start teaching them in short easy to learn steps at as young of an age as possible. Most puppies are introduced into their new home at around 8 to 12 weeks of age. This is the perfect time to start teaching them about the leash. Start by letting them sniff it and get used to it so they will not be afraid when it is attached to their collar. You may want to do this over a few sessions spanning a couple of days. Be sure to continue this training inside or other area with minimal distractions. Starting outside immediately will overwhelm the puppy and make training harder.

Once the puppy is okay with the leash lying on the floor take their collar and hook the leash to it. It is important to never use a choke or pinch collar on a puppy. If they get scared just calmly sit down with them and let them get used to having it attached to them. If they are okay start walking slowly and see if they follow you. If the pup sits or lays down or doesnt want to follow you dont try to pull or drag them this will only cause them to fight you more or scare them of the leash altogether. Try making a clickingor kissing sound with your mouth or patting your leg. This will usually get the puppy to follow you. If they attempt to go in your direction reward them with praise and a treat.

Continue these steps over the next few days. If the puppy is getting more comfortable with having the leash hooked to their collar and wanting to follow you when you walk gradually increase the amount of steps you are taking. As the puppy continues to follow you, you can continue to increase the distance you walk before turning around. If the pup gets distracted or is not following you be sure to make your noise and tell them 'follow me' or 'let's go'.

Once your pup can do this consistently in the house you can move to another area with very few distractions like a garage or driveway. Continue increasing the distance and duration of the sessions. Once your puppy has mastered this new area, move to the sidewalk in front of your house. Continue increasing the distance and eventually you will be walking up and down the sidewalk of your street.

Walking Tips

If your pup doesnt want to walk with you try holding a piece of food or treat in front of them encouraging them to walk.

If your puppy likes to pull on the lease stop and wait for them to stop pulling a give a little slack in the leash then continue walking

If your puppy continues to pull change directions and give them your lets go cue. If you pup starts to pull again repeat. Eventually your pup will start listening to you and not charging ahead.

Remember to reward your puppy often if they are walking nicely beside you. Gradually increase the distance between treats and you will decrease the amount of treats you have to use on a walk.

Remember to start in a location with no distractions and gradually build up to being outside where there are tons of distractions for your dog.

If your dog needs is having trouble with any of the steps go back to the previous step and start again. It is very common for puppies to need a refresher course throughout training.

Be patient and happy. Getting frustrated with your dog will only hinder your training effort. Dogs dont like to listen to us when we are frustrated any more than we like to be frustrated so have fun with training.

How Could You?

administrator@purebredpups.org (purebredpups.org) — Mon, 01 Jan 0001 00:00:00 GMT

When I was a puppy, I entertained you with my antics and made you laugh. You called me your child, and despite a number of chewed shoes and a couple of murdered throw pillows, I became your best friend. Whenever I was "bad," you'd shake your finger at me and ask "How could you?" but
then you'd relent, and roll me over for a bellyrub.

My housebreaking took a little longer than expected, because you were terribly busy, but we worked on that together. I remember those nights of nuzzling you in bed and
listening to your confidences and secret dreams, and I believed that life could not be any more perfect. We went for long walks and runs in the park, car rides, stops for ice cream (I only got the cone because "ice cream is bad for dogs," you said), and I took long naps in the sun waiting
for you to come home at the end of the day.

Gradually, you began spending more time at work and on your career, and more time searching for a human mate. I waited for you patiently, comforted you through heartbreaks and disappointments, never chided you about bad decisions, and romped with glee at your homecomings, and when you fell in love. She, now your wife, is not a "dog person" - still I welcomed her into our home, tried to show her affection, and obeyed her. I was happy because you were happy.

Then the human babies came along and I shared your excitement. I was fascinated by their pinkness, how they smelled, and I wanted to mother them, too. Only she and you worried that I might hurt them, and I spent most of my
time banished to another room, or to a dog crate. Oh, how I wanted to love them, but I became a "prisoner of love." As they began to grow, I became their friend. They clung to my fur and pulled themselves up on wobbly legs, poked fingers in my eyes, investigated my ears, and gave me kisses on my nose. I loved everything about them and their touch -- because your
touch was now so infrequent --and I would have defended them with my life if need be. I would sneak into their beds and listen to their worries and secret dreams, and together we waited for the sound of your car in the driveway.

There had been a time, when others asked you if you had a dog, that you produced a photo of me from your wallet and told them stories about me. These past few years, you just answered "yes" and changed the subject. I had gone from being "your dog" to "just a dog," and you resented every expenditure on my behalf. Now, you have a new career opportunity in another city, and you and they will be moving to an apartment that does not allow pets. You've made the right decision for your "family," but there was a time when I was your only family.

I was excited about the car ride until we arrived at the animal shelter. It smelled of dogs and cats, of fear, of hopelessness. You filled out the paperwork and said "I know you will find a good home for her." They shrugged and gave you a pained look. They understand the realities
facing a middle-aged dog, even one with "papers." You had to pry your son's fingers loose from my collar as he screamed "No, Daddy! Please don't let them take my dog!" And I worried for him, and what lessons you had just taught him about friendship and loyalty, about love and responsibility,
and about respect for all life.

You gave me a good-bye pat on the head,
avoided my eyes, and politely refused to take my collar and leash with you. You had a deadline to meet and now I have one, too.

After you left, the two nice ladies said you probably knew about your upcoming move months ago and made no attempt to find me another good home. They shook their heads and asked "How could you?"

They are as attentive to us here in the shelter as their busy schedules allow. They feed us, of course, but I lost
my appetite days ago. At first, whenever anyone passed my pen, I rushed to the front, hoping it was you, that you had changed your mind -- that this was all a bad dream...or I hoped it would at least be someone who cared, anyone who might save me. When I realized I could not compete with the
frolicking for attention of happy puppies, oblivious to their own fate, I retreated to a far corner and waited.

I heard her footsteps as she came for me at the end of the day, and I padded along the aisle after her to a separate room. A blissfully quiet room. She placed me on the table and
rubbed my ears, and told me not to worry. My heart pounded in anticipation of what was to come, but there was also a sense of relief. The prisoner of love had run out of days. As is my nature, I was more concerned about her. The burden which she bears weighs heavily on her, and I know that, the same way I knew your every mood. She gently placed a tourniquet around
my foreleg as a tear ran down her cheek. I licked her hand in the same way I used to comfort you so many years ago. She expertly slid the hypodermic needle into my vein. As I felt the sting and the cool liquid coursing through my body, I lay down sleepily, looked into her kind eyes and murmured "How could you?"

Perhaps because she understood my dogspeak, she said "I'm so sorry." She hugged me, and hurriedly explained it was her
job to make sure I went to a better place, where I wouldn't be ignored or abused or abandoned, or have to fend for myself -- a place of love and light so very different from this earthly place. And with my last bit of energy, I tried to convey to her with a thump of my tail that my "How could you?" was not directed at her.

It was you, My Beloved Master, I was thinking of. I will think of you and wait for you forever.

May everyone in your life continue to show you so much loyalty. The End

** A note from the author: If "How Could You?" brought tears to your eyes as you read it, as it did to mine as I wrote it, it is because it is the composite story of then millions of formerly owned pets who die each year in America's shelters. Anyone is welcome to distribute the essay for a noncommercial purpose, as long as it is properly attributed with the copyright notice. Please use it to help educate, on your websites, in newsletters, on animal shelter and vet office bulletin boards.

-- Copyright Jim Willis 2001

Dealing with the Loss of a Pet

administrator@purebredpups.org (purebredpups.org) — Mon, 01 Jan 0001 00:00:00 GMT

Losing a pet can be an extremely difficult time in one's life. Remember that it is okay to grieve their loss. Healing is a process that takes time and grieving is a part of that process. It is normal to feel guilt, denial, anger or depression throughout this process. Eventually acceptance will set in and you will begin to feel whole again this does not mean that you have to forget about all of the good times you two had together.

Many times the loss of a pet is greeted with much less support from others than the loss of a family member or close friend. Even though many of us consider our pets part of the family, others especially non-pet owners, can have trouble relating to our feelings during this difficult time. Surround yourself with loved ones who can help you deal with your feelings. Sometimes just talking about them will make you feel better. If you don't feel comfortable talking with someone close to you, there are Pet Counselors out there that specialize in Pet Loss.

Children in the Family

Explaining death to a child is not an easy thing to do. Younger children especially under the age of 7 do not have an understanding of permanent loss. At any age children are very sensitive and need to be talked to in a gentle, loving manner. They will likely have questions for you about their beloved pet. Where are they? When are they coming home? Why did they have to go? Your answers to these questions will depend on your particular situation, religious beliefs, etc. but be sure to answer their questions. You do not need to go into all of the details with them, just enough to answer their questions. Be sure to help them through their own grieving process.

Other Pets

Pets also have their own grieving process. They will definitely notice that their 'friend' is not around, especially if they have been together for a long time. Be sure to give them lots of love as they deal with this in their own way.

Getting Another Pet

It is generally best to take the time you need to
grieve before introducing a new pet into the family. Children and other pets also need to be ready to accept the new member into the family, so make sure everyone is ready before bringing one home. Once you do finally decide the time is right be careful not to compare the new pet to the one you have lost. All pets are unique and have their own quirks and personalities. This one needs to fine a new place in your heart not replace the other one.

Tips on Coping

Create a photo collage, video tribute or scrapbook of their photos. This is a great way to remember all those times you spent together and should help with the grieving process.

Write in a journal or diary about your feelings. Sometimes just getting them out in writing will help you feel better.

Write a story about your pet's life, even from their point of view, it will help you reflect on their life and remember all the fun times you shared.

Write a letter to them explaining how much you miss them. It may sound corny but just getting it out can help bring closure.

Make a donation to a local Rescue or Animal Shelter in their honor. It is a great way to help out other animals in need and honor their memory.

Take your time. There is no magic amount of time that will make you feel better. Each person is different.

My New Inspiration

administrator@purebredpups.org (purebredpups.org) — Mon, 01 Jan 0001 00:00:00 GMT

Logan is normally a very sweet and loving dog who can tell your every mood. There have been numerous times when I have come home from work upset and he has come right over just to sit by me. Just having him there would make me feel better. He is a well trained dog as far as obedience commands go but has some behavior issues. At his peak it was not uncommon for him to be at the end of his leash barking and lunging when another dog approached. I cant help but feeling that I have been a terrible Doggie Parent in letting him get this way but is there more than that

Lets start at the beginning. My husband and I had just got our first dog, Lacey a Chihuahua/Poodle mix. It didnt take long for us to realize that she needed a friend. Since she was such a wonderful puppy, we decided to try to find another dog of the same mix. We were unable to find one in the area so I resorted to searching online (which I look back on now and shake my headwhat was I thinking?). I located this litter of 5 puppies in Southwest Missouri. We made all of the arrangements which included flying him to us, another decision that I deeply regret.

He arrived at O'Hare on Thursday August 31, 2006. When we arrived at the baggage claim counter to pick him up, we found this scared little heap hiding in the back of the carrier. Looking back, I can't imagine how scary that was for him; I am in tears now just thinking about the pain and fear we put him through. We took him out to the car and set the carrier in the trunk to let him out. We opened the door but he didn't move, not that I blame him this poor little guy had just had his life turned upside down. He was ripped from his mother and littermates in the dead of night to make it to the airport for his flight. I can't even imagine the pain and stress that must have put on him. We eventually resorted to taking the top off the carrier to avoid reaching in and scaring him even more. He rode in my husband's lap all the way home.

At first when we put him down in the kitchen he was very scared. We had Lacey in the other room to let him investigate his new home first. She wanted to play right away but he wasn't so sure. By the end of that day they were cuddled together in a little dog bed sleeping in a fuzzy heap and have been best friends ever since.

We unfortunately were a little late in getting him in a puppy class. He didn't start until he was 8 months old. If I only knew then what I know now (sound familiar), I would have never waited so long. He did fine in class and we took him for walks, to the store and for rides in the car quite often. Besides being shy and somewhat fearful puppy he seemed to be doing fine.

In February 2008, we got the news that my husband was being laid off. This turned our family upside down. He was out of work for a few months and then happened upon a job that was a good 2.5 hour drive from where we live. He was lucky enough to stay with family during the week and would come home on the weekends. This unfortunate event totally changed Logan's life.

I was very stressed during this time and did not realize just how much my mood, actions and stress level affected Logan. I also had less time for him then I had in the past but none of this compared to the heartache he felt over his 'daddy' being gone all the time. Each night when I got home from work, I would take him and Lacey for a walk and play with them for a while. After that Logan would lie by the back door looking very depressed and sometimes whining. He would jump up at every car noise he heard, I believe in hopes it was his 'daddy' coming home. It was heartbreaking to see him in such pain and not know what to do to help him. How do you explain this to a dog? How do you explain that 'daddy' still loves you but just cannot be here right now? I wish there would have been a way.

After almost 8 months of this, we decided it was too much to put Logan through anymore. My husband came home jobless, but at least he was home. It took Logan a while to realize the change. He had become very accustomed to the schedule and seemed to know when Sunday was and would stay very close to 'Daddy' all day long knowing that he would be leaving later that day. He seemed to be able to tell when it was almost time for Steve to leave and would get very anxious, following him around whining. It was great to not have to deal with this routine anymore but how to you tell a dog, it's over, don't worry anymore?

During Steve's time away, Logan had become increasingly protective of Lacey and I, possessive of his toys and showed more signs of aggression toward strangers and other dogs. We used to be able to take him out without much trouble but lately he would bark at every person or dog he met and not just a nice 'How you doing?' bark. If we took him out for a walk or to the store and went in different directions he would dart back and forth whining and pulling on the leash trying to get to the other person. On walks, he was so stressed that he would walk on his back feet at the end of the leash, jumping and alternating between a high-pitched whine and bark. Now that our life had settled down a bit I knew it was time to help Logan as best I could.

I began taking the dogs on separate walks so they could learn to be apart and I could work with them one-on-one. I started by making Logan 'sit' and 'look at me' every few steps. At first it would take up to a couple of minutes for him even to focus on me and listen at all. It made for some very long yet very short walks as we would spend five minutes working on a sit after every step or two.

It is now July and Steve has been back for a little over 8 months. Logan has been making great steps in the right direction. Training was a little slow over the winter as it was too cold and snowy to walk most days and I was working more hours at work. With the unfortunate downturn of the economy I have had my hours cut at work which may have just been a blessing in disguise. I have had the time I need to focus on Logan and his training. We enrolled him in a class in April. He has been steadily continuing to make progress. The trainer there is wonderful and has given me the inspiration that I need to finally get Logan through his issues.

I have been so inspired by her and the progress that I have started to see in Logan that I have started to read some books on dog behavior and have found a new passion of my. Maybe one day I will be fortunate enough to be able to help others through similar situations but for now my goal is to help the little dog who has brought so much joy to my life everyday that he has been a part of it.

Microchipping

administrator@purebredpups.org (purebredpups.org) — Mon, 01 Jan 0001 00:00:00 GMT

What is a Microchip?

Microchips are tiny transponders, about the size of a grain of rice, which are implanted under the dog's skin, between the shoulder blades, using a special syringe. The procedure is much like getting a shot and causes very little pain to the dog. Once implanted, the Microchip can be detected by a special scanner which uses radio waves to read the chip.

How do they work?

Microchips are designed to be a backup to your dog's regular collar and tags, not a replacement. If your dog ever gets loose and loses their collar and/or tags, the microchip may be able to bring them home again. Many vets and shelters have handheld scanners which can detect and read the microchip's identification number. They can then contact the registry to get the owner's contact information provided the chip was registered.
Microchips are only effective if you register them. It is also very important that you keep your information up to date with the registry. If you move or change your phone number you must update your information with them. Many of the most popular registries have online servicing that allows you to update your information online. If you adopt a dog who has already been microchipped, you still need to register it or update the information on file. If you are not sure if the dog has been microchipped, ask your vet. They should be able to scan him and give you information about what to do.

More about Registries

There are many different companies that manufacture and register microchips throughout the United States. All of the registries will register their own chips as well as chips from other manufacturers. There are also two relatively new companies that have created internet based lookup utilities to help rescuers locate the dog's owner. PetMicrochipLookup.org created by AAHA and CheckTheChip.com created by Chloe Standard. These sites allow you to enter a microchip id and get the registry information if it is available. Not all registry information is available at this time but both companies are working on building their database to hopefully include all registries sometime in the future.
I tested these sites on my own dog's microchip numbers and they were both able to correctly identify the Home Again chips but only CheckTheChip.com was able to identify the AVID chip.

Below is more information about the most popular registries.

Registry	Website	Online Servicing	Registration Fee	Annual Fee	Update Fee
AKC CAR	www.akccar.org	Yes	$17.50 - online $19.95 - paper	None	None
Avid / PETtrac	www.avidplc.com	No	$19.95 - 1 pet $50.00 - 3 pets	None	$6.00
Home Again	www.homeagain.com	Yes	None	$14.99	None
Pet Link	www.petlink.net	Yes	$11.95	None	None
24 Pet Watch	www.24petwatch.com	Yes	None	N/A	None

Is My Dog Overweight?

administrator@purebredpups.org (purebredpups.org) — Mon, 01 Jan 0001 00:00:00 GMT

Is your dog overweight? You may be surprised to find out the truth. Close to half of all dogs in the United States are actually overweight yet the majority of their owners don't think so.

How do I know if my dog is overweight?

You can do a quick test to check if your dog is overweight or not. Slowly run your fingers down your dog's side. If you cannot easily feel their ribs then your dog is overweight. You should also be able to easily feel their shoulder blades and see a slight tuck-up on their underside just behind the ribs. If this is not discernable then your dog could stand to lose a few pounds.

Why should I worry?

Just like in people carrying around that extra weight can make your dog unhealthy and prone to certain health conditions. Many studies have shown that leaner dogs live longer, healthier lives. Overweight dogs are also more susceptible to diabetes, heart disease, pancreatitis, hip dysplasia and other joint and bone issues as well as cancer.

What can I do?

You will need to start closely monitoring your dog's weight. If you have a small dog, buy yourself a good postage scale. If your dog is too big for that you may have to make frequent trips to the vet to weight them. Just like human diets drastically cutting down on the amount of food you are feeding and trying to lose weight too quickly is not healthy either. A good number to shoot for is about 1% of your dog's body weight per week.

There are many kinds of diet food for your dog out there though many are not really that great for your dog. Typically to help your dog lose weight their diet should be higher in protein and lower in carbohydrates. You also need to be sure your dog is getting enough fat. Fat is what makes the dog feel full. Typically you should shoot for 25% or more protein, 12 to 16% fat, and less than 6% fiber.

If you are already using a good quality food, begin by cutting the amount by about 5%. Weigh your dog in a week and see if they have lost any weight from their initial weighing. If you are in the 1% range great. If your dog has not lost any weight cut the amount you are feeding them by 5% again and repeat. If you decide to switch foods start with the recommended amount for your dog's current weight and cut that by about 3% and follow the above guidelines.

Increasing the amount of exercise your dog gets daily can have a drastic effect on their weight. Proper exercise will help your dog burn calories and convert fat into muscle. If your dog is not used to much physical activity daily, start slowly. Start by taking them on short walks and gradually increase the distance as your dog builds up their endurance. Off-leash play in a safe, fenced-in area is also a great way for your dog to get exercise. Remember to take it slowly and consult your veterinarian if your dog has health issues.

So, how many Calories should my dog have?

If you are part of the growing trend of people that prepare home-cooked meals for their dogs, then how do you know how much to feed your dog? There are several formulas out there that allow you to compute the amount of calories that your dog should have each day based on their age, exercise level, etc. Unfortunately, things like breed, climate, coat type, etc also affect how many calories your dog should have so there is no steadfast rule. We have come up with a Calorie Calculator for Dogs that will give you an estimate of how much your dog should be eating but remember this is just an estimate and you should always monitor your dog's weight and adjust the amount you are feeding them accordingly.

Remember that treats also contribute to the amount of calories your dog is getting each day. If you train your dog quite often using treats you should first of all make sure you are using a good quality treat and also decrease their meals accordingly or use their meal as a training reward.

Sources: Counting Calories, The Whole Dog Journal, Sept 2009

Spaying&Neutering

administrator@purebredpups.org (purebredpups.org) — Mon, 01 Jan 0001 00:00:00 GMT

Have you ever thought about breeding your dog? Have you
thought how great it would be to have a litter of little ones running around? Do you believe that your dog "needs" to have a litter of pups before being spayed? Do you believe your kids need to see the "miracle of life"? If you have answered 'yes' to any of these questions you need to read this article.

Breeding Background

Humans have been breeding dogs for centuries. We have
created all of today's title=Purebreds>purebred breeds by systematically selecting and breeding dogs with desired traits. Breeding has a long and rich history and if done correctly by qualified and knowledgeable breeders can create wonderful dogs. Reputable href="http://www.designermixes.org/Dog_Articles/2/Choosing_A_Breeder.aspx" target="_blank" title=Breeders>breeders do years of research and tests on all of their breeding stock to ensure genetic deficiencies are not passed along
to the next generation.

Myths about Breeding

Breeding should first and foremost be done to further a
breed. It should NEVER be done to make money. In fact, if done properly most breeders do not make much, if any, at all. With all of the vet bills for proper testing, immunization and heaven forbid an emergency surgery should something go wrong during delivery they may even lose money. If you are thinking about breeding your dog to make a quick buck, think again.

If you are considering breeding because you believe your
children need to experience this miracle for themselves, you should consider what you will tell them if something goes tragically wrong and their beloved pet dies during delivery or the puppies are stillborn. There are many breeds
including the Chihuahua, Boston Terrier and many other breeds that require a c-section to deliver their pups.

If you are considering breeding because you believe your dog needs to have a litter of pups before being spayed you should reconsider. In fact female dogs who are spayed prior to having their first heat have less than a 1% chance of developing mammary cancer. Their risk increases to 8% after one heat and 26% after two heats. Spaying your dog will not only help control overpopulation but could also save her life.

For more information about common myths visit the United States Humane Society:
href="http://www.humanesociety.org/issues/pet_overpopulation/facts/spay_neuter_myths_facts.html" title="USHS" target="_blank">http://www.humanesociety.org/issues/pet_overpopulation/facts/spay_neuter_myths_facts.html

Pet Overpopulation

Did you know that according to the href="http://www.humanesociety.org/" target="_blank"
title="United States Humane Society">United States Humane Society over 8 million pets enter shelters each year? Of these maybe half find loving homes the other have are euthanized. Approximately 4 million cats and dogs are
euthanized every year which is approximately one every 8 seconds. The only way to help control this overpopulation is to spay and neuter our pets.

You may think that your dog will never contribute to this but the truth is it happens more than you think. If your dog gets loose and finds that female in heat down the street or a male dog finds his way into your yard you could now be looking at a litter of puppies in a couple of months. Finding loving homes for these dogs is now your responsibility and you have no way of guaranteeing that one of your dog's pups will never end up in a shelter. If you
do not plan on breeding your dog, please spay or neuter them.

Quick Stats

Over 6-8 million pets enter shelters every year

Over 3-4 million dogs and cats are euthanized every year (1 every 8 seconds)

Over 25% of all dogs in shelters are purebreds

Spaying&Neutering is the only 100% effective way to control the overpopulation

What Can I Do?

Spay&Neuter your pets

Help spread the word - href="http://www.humanesociety.org/issues/pet_overpopulation/" title="Help stop pet overpopuation" target="_blank">http://www.humanesociety.org/issues/pet_overpopulation/

Healthy Foods for Your Dog

administrator@purebredpups.org (purebredpups.org) — Mon, 01 Jan 0001 00:00:00 GMT

We have received many questions about human foods that are 'okay' for your dog to eat. Contrary to what the Commercial Pet food companies want you to believe many human foods are just fine for your dog to consume. Of course, just like with people many there may be certain foods that are fine for one dog but not okay for another. If you choose to feed your dog human foods you should keep an eye on any complications or issues they may have with a particular food and avoid feeding them at the table, unless you want them to get in the habit of begging while you eat your dinner.

Many of the foods listed below can be combined into wonderful home-prepared meals for your dog. Remember that organic foods are the healthiest for both you and your dog. Vegetables and grains should typically be cooked before giving them to your dog as this makes easier to digest. Certain types of meat can be fed to dogs raw but extreme care should be taken to prevent illness to both you and your dog. Freezing raw meats for 2 weeks prior to serving to your dog is recommended to kill any unwanted bacteria. Cooking the meat by baking, boiling or broiling is recommended. Be sure to trim the fat off the meat before cooking. Cooked fat turns to unhealthy grease and should not be fed to your dog.

This list is just a guideline and if you have any issues or questions you should consult your veterinarian. Remember processed food like chips, candy and other sweets especially chocolate are very bad for your dog and should always be avoided.

Vegetables

Okay: Asparagus, Brussels Sprouts, Beets (in small quantity), Beans, Broccoli, Carrots, Cauliflower, Celery, Collards, Cucumbers, Kale, Kelp, Lentils, Green Beans, Parsnips, Parsley, Peas, Potatoes, Pumpkin, Sprouts, Squash, Tomatoes, Turnips and Yams

Not Okay: Onions

Fruits

Okay: Apples, Avocados, Bananas, Berries, Figs, Melons, Oranges, Peaches and Pears

Not Okay: Grapes or Raisins

Grains

Okay: Amaranth, Barley, Brown Rice, Buckwheat, Couscous, Millet, Oatmeal, Quinoa, Wheat

Dairy

Okay: Eggs (cooked or raw - egg shells are a great source of calcium if they are blended or finely crushed), Mild Cheeses, Cottage Cheese, Yogurt (plain), Kefir

Meat

Okay: Beef, Lamb, Chicken, Turkey, Duck, Rabbit

Not Okay: Cooked fat, Raw Pork, Raw Rabbit, Venison (some venison are found to have a disease similar to mad cow which is not killed during freezing or cooking), Non-organic livers

Fish

Okay: Flounder, Tilapia, Salmon (canned is fine also), Mackerel (canned is fine also), Trout and other white fish

Not Okay: Raw Fish, Tuna, Swordfish

Oils

Okay: Olive Oil, Flax Seed Oil (not cooked), Coconut Oil (not cooked)

Not Okay: Vegetable Oils

For more information about cooking for your dog check out "Natural Dog" by Deva Khalsa, VMD

Honey Cranberry Cookies

administrator@purebredpups.org (purebredpups.org) — Mon, 01 Jan 0001 00:00:00 GMT

These are a delicious cookie for your dog. I came up with them one day when trying to find something new to make for them. They are suprisingly good also.

Ingredients

2 cups Whole Wheat Flour

1/2 cup Chopped Cranberries

1/2 cup Water

1/3 cup Honey

1/3 cup Olive Oil

Directions

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Mix above ingredients in mixing bowl. Roll into about 1-inch balls and place on cookie sheet greased with Olive Oil. Bake 20-25 minutes or until golden brown. Press down with fork in criss-cross pattern similar to Peanut Butter Cookies. Let cool before serving to your dog, but you can eat them warm. They are not bad. Makes about 2 dozen.

Choosing the Right Vet

administrator@purebredpups.org (purebredpups.org) — Mon, 01 Jan 0001 00:00:00 GMT

We all strive to keep our dogs happy and healthy but despite our best efforts they are bound to get sick or injured at least a few times in their lives. When the unfortunate event does happen it is important to consult your veterinarian immediately so they can help you choose the best course of action for a quick recovery. Choosing the right vet is critical for the overall health and well-being of your dog. With so many options out there how do you choose the right one?

How Do I Choose?

It is important not to wait until there is an emergency to choose a vet. If you are looking to adopt a new dog you should begin looking for a vet as soon as you bring her home or even before. Most people choose a vet by location alone. They simply find the one closest to their house and go with them even though this may not be the best choice for them or their dog.

The world of pet care is changing rapidly. With growing new trends like holistic care, changes in vaccination recommendations and new information about nutrition, it is important to select a vet who is knowledgeable and up to date on the newest information, policies and procedures. When looking for a vet, you should make sure their views about healthcare are in line with your own. Some vets will recommend surgery for certain ailments while others will prescribe a more natural approach including physical therapy and only choose surgery as a last resort. The most important thing is that you feel comfortable discussing your dog's health and well-being with them. If you feel uncertain or unable to ask questions then they are not the best fit for you.

What to Look For

Be sure to schedule an initial consultation to tour the location and discuss your questions and concerns with the veterinarian prior to making your decision. Remember during this visit to pay attention to everything including the way the receptionist greets you and other clients. Pay attention to how they interact with the animals. Make sure the facilities are clean and up to date. Take notice of the informational packets or handouts they provide in both the waiting and examination rooms.

Ask plenty of questions. Remember you are going to be entrusting them with your dog's life, this is your chance to interview them and make sure they are the right fit. Ask about their views on different medical issues. Ask about the staff and how they handle their clients. If your dog has any behavior issues be sure to ask how they approach them and what you can do to help.

Technical knowledge counts for a lot when choosing a vet but it is only part of the equation. You have to make sure that you and your dog are comfortable with whoever you choose. Hopefully the three of you will have a long and happy relationship together.

Things to Consider

How do they interact with your dog? How does your dog feel there? Dogs pick up on a lot and can tell us much through their body language and actions.

What overall feeling do you get from being there? Do you feel at ease or rushed?

What is their emergency protocol? Do they have a 24-hr emergency care?

How do they handle overnight stays should your dog need one?

Are things explained in terms you can understand?

Will your dog always see the same vet or is it a team approach?

Unfortunately, money does play a part. Ask what payment options they have especially if something major is needed that you cannot afford on the spot.

I Already Have a Vet

If you found yourself reading the paragraphs above and wondering if your vet is really the right vet for you, chances are they might not be. If you have any doubt, concerns or issues with your current vet, remember you are not obligated to stay with them. If they do not take the time to answer your questions and work with you feel free to explore other options. If you find a vet you are interested in schedule a consultation. Follow the steps above and see how they make you feel in comparison to your current vet.

Choosing a vet is really a personal choice. The right vet for one person is not necessarily the right vet for someone else. The most important thing is to choose a vet that makes you feel comfortable, will answer your questions, address your concerns and will work with you to improve the life of your dog. Remember healthcare is a partnership you should always have the ability to make a choice. After all no one knows your dog better than you do, so be their voice and stand up for them. They deserve it!

Dealing with Allergies to Your Pet

administrator@purebredpups.org (purebredpups.org) — Mon, 01 Jan 0001 00:00:00 GMT

Allergy Basics

As pets become more and more common in our society, so do
our allergies to them. Pets have become an integral part of our lives even for many of the over 15% of the population that has an allergy to them. Most people who are allergic to pets also have allergies to other things including dust
mites, mold and pollen.

Pet allergy sufferers are typically allergic to the dander, saliva or urine of the animal. Dog and cat allergies are the most common but people can also have allergies to birds, hamsters, rabbits, mice and guinea
pigs. For those with allergies, symptoms include coughing, sneezing, itchy eyes, runny nose or red itchy skin.

Relating to Dogs

'Hypoallergenic' and 'non-shedding' dogs have been the
latest craze but in fact there are really no hypoallergenic dogs or dogs that do not shed at all. There are many breeds that shed very little hair in comparison to others; however it is the dander and not the hair that most people
are allergic to so this doesn't matter much. There are a few breeds including Schnauzers, Poodles and some Terriers that actually have less dander which makes them a better choice for people with allergies.

It is important for people with pet allergies to spend time with the dog they are adopting before bringing it home to see how they react around it. If you cannot spend time with the actual dog you should find someone with the same breed that you can spend time with. Remember people can be
allergic to an animal on an individual basis so while this may help determine if you will have trouble it is not 100% accurate. Remember that href="http://www.designermixes.org/Dog_Articles/15/Choosing_Your_Puppy.aspx" target="_blank" title="Choosing a Puppy">puppies typically have a different coat than adults of the same breed. It is not uncommon for a person to be allergic to a dog as a href="http://www.designermixes.org/Dog_Articles/10/Socializing_Your_Puppy.aspx" target="_blank" title="Socializing Your Puppy">puppy and not once they grow out of their puppy coat or vice-versa.

Reducing Your Symptoms

If you or another member of your family suffers from pet
allergies there are some things you can do to help alleviate your discomfort.

Keep pets out of the bedroom. We spend a great deal of time in the bedroom so keeping pets out of the allergic person's bedroom will help
greatly.

Purchase a 'HEPA' air purifier. Make
sure the device is large enough for the overall area or you may need to purchase a couple of them but when used properly these purifiers can help
remove pet dander and other allergens from the air.

Clean and vacuum regularly. This will
also help remove allergens from the carpet and air. Carpeting harbors lots of pet dander and other allergens so switching to hardwood, vinyl or linoleum if possible will greatly reduce your symptoms.

Bathe your pet frequently. Be sure to
use a soothing, all-natural shampoo as frequent bathing with harsh shampoos can strip the essential oils from your pet's coat. There are some allergy sprays you can use for your dog to help cut down on the dander the give off. Please do your research to make sure they are safe to use on your pet for a continued basis.

Feed your pet a good multivitamin and a
fatty acid supplement to help keep their skin healthy.

Be sure to wash your hands after
handling the pet and his toys, bedding or other items.

Find a good allergist in your area. They can be a huge help in managing or helping to reduce your allergic reactions.

Unfortunately, people can develop an allergy to pets at any point in their life. In the past many doctors would simply recommend re-homing the pet as a solution to the allergies. Fortunately, today we have some ways to
help deal with the allergies so giving up your beloved family member is not always necessary. By using some of the above strategies, you can hopefully manage your allergies without having to find a new home for your pet.

The Border Collie Road Test

administrator@purebredpups.org (purebredpups.org) — Mon, 01 Jan 0001 00:00:00 GMT

Origin - The Border Collie is considered as one of the oldest breeds. The Border Collie originated in the border country between Scotland and England. He was known in the past as the Working Collie, the Old-fashioned Collie, the Farm Collie and the English Collie, and finally got his name from the secretary of the International Sheepdog Society in Great Britain in 1915. He is a breed of herding dog, and widely regarded as the most intelligent dog breed. Border Collies are highly energetic, and as a result have a tendency towards neurotic destructive behavior if not given enough to do. They are still frequently used on farms all over the world for assisting with handling of livestock, and they have also become popular as pet and sport dogs. Ask any breeder any you'll hear these canines are highly trainable, are able to rationalize many situations and even learn new commands in a few minutes.

Temperament - The Border Collie is an extremely intelligent, biddable breed with an instinctive desire to work closely with a human handler. True to their working heritage, Border Collies make very demanding, energetic pets that are better off in households that can provide them with plenty of exercise and a job to do. Border Collies are unsuitable for people who cannot or will not provide a considerable amount of exercise for their dogs, both physical and mental. For example, as many working breeds they can be motion-sensitive and may attempt to control the movements of family members, cats, bicycles, cars, or anything else that moves if not given enough mental stimulation. These dogs are also not suitable for households with small children, because they frequently try to 'herd' the children or react rather quickly to unexpected movements. As a breeder I prefer that a puppy go to a household where the children are over 7 years of age for just this reason. Many Border Collies that end up in shelters or rescue are there because the owners, who may have been attracted by the appearance and intelligence, were not prepared to meet their dog's needs.
Watchdog qualities: Border Collies are not known as an effective guard dog breed, but they are protective of their family and will bark if a stranger approaches the house. The Border Collie gets along well with other dogs and other family animals (once it knows that it can't keep rounding them up all day!!!).

Backyard/Exercise requirements - Being an active breed, the Border Collie will need space to run around and exercise. Make sure your yard is adequately fenced as this pooch will even scale a six-foot fence if he thinks the other side is more interesting! Walk with care when walking your Border Collie; make sure he is always on a leash unless you're in a safe off-leash area. Due to his strong herding instincts, you may find he will take off after a car, a flock of birds or even a group of children as he tries to 'herd' them into a corner. Border Collies won't usually exercise on their own, so most require their human counterparts to participate in their daily exercise programs. Merely putting a Border Collie into a fenced area as a form of exercise will NOT be enough for them.

Border Collie's are bred for endurance, a working Border Collie is able to run as much as 80 kms a day over sometimes difficult terrain, then go and do it all again the next day!!

A one or two km run is just a warm-up for a Border Collie. People without the time to give plenty of vigorous exercise will be advised to find a calmer breed to own.

Size/weight and Colour - An ideal height for a Border Collie dog is 48 - 53 cms high, a Border Collie bitch is 46 - 51 cms high. Weight is approx 23 kgs for dogs and 16 - 18 kgs for bitches, depending on the overall size of the bitch. The Border Collie's medium, weather resistant coat is usually black and white, but black, white and tan (Tri), chocolate and white, red and white plus blue and white and blue merle are all correct colours. A Border Collie has a life expectancy of around 12 - 14 years.

Grooming - Brushing a few times a week will keep your Border Collies coat in good condition. Double coated, with a moderately long, dense, medium textured top coat while the undercoat is short, soft and dense, making a weather resistant protection with abundant coat to form a mane, breeching, and brush. On face, ear tips, forelegs (except feather), hind legs from hock to ground, the hair is short and smooth.

You can brush more often during shedding season to prevent fewer hairs around the house. Monthly clip the toenails and make sure your dogs eyes and ears are clean. Bathe only when necessary.

Health - Like most medium and large sized dogs, the Border Collie is prone to hip dysplasia (CHD). There is no available genetic test available for hip dysplasia, although careful breeding practices are known to lower the incidence of both.

Ceroid Lipofuscinosis (CL) is also sometimes referred to as storage disease. It is a disease that affects the cells of the body and in particular the nerve cells. It is a rare but serious disease. CL is not contagious and it is inherited from a simple recessive gene in the dog's parents. Affected dogs are normal at birth until about 18mths of age, afflicted dogs rarely live past two years of age. The mutation causing the form of disease found in Border Collies was identified by Scott Melville in the laboratory of Dr. Alan Wilton of the school of Biotechnology of Biomolecular sciences at the University of NSW. There is no treatment and no cure, but a DNA test is now available to detect carriers as well as affected dogs. All reputable breeders in Australia would have their breeding stock DNA tested before producing a litter.

Collie eye anomaly (CEA) is a congenital, inherited eye disease affecting Border Collies and other breeds involving retina, choroids, and sclera. In Border Collies it is a generally mild disease and rarely significantly impairs vision. There is now a DNA test available for CEA and, through its use, breeders can ensure that they will not produce affected pups.

Trapped Neutrophil Syndrome (TNS) is a hereditary disease which inhibits the release of neutrophils produced in the bone marrow into the blood stream. Puppies affected with this disease will eventually succumb to infection. Because this is an autoimmune deficiency disease the puppies present a variety of symptoms depending upon what infections they fall susceptible to, and so it has gone undiagnosed in the past. Once thought to be rare, it is now believed to be responsible for many cases of "fading puppies". There is no cure, but a DNA test is now available to detect carriers as well as affected dogs.

Dog Sports/Activities - Border Collies excel at several dog sports in addition to their success in herding trials. They dominate the higher jump heights at dog agility competitions, so much so that in England the Border Collies occasionally are given competitions separate from all other breeds.

The Border Collie's speed, agility, stamina have allowed them to dominate in up-and-coming dog activities like fly-ball and disc dog competitions. They have a highly developed sense of smell and with their high drive make excellent tracking dogs for tracking trails also.

Livestock work: Working Border Collies can take direction by voice and whistle at long distances when herding. Their great energy and herding instinct are used to herd all kind of animals, from traditional sheep and cattle, free range poultry, and pigs, to deer, and ostriches. In Australia Border Collies are registered with the Australian National Kennel Council (ANKC) affiliated state control body, or with a working dog registry.

Inclusion on the ANKC main register allows Border Collies to compete in conformation, obedience, agility, tracking, herding and other ANKC sanctioned events held by affiliated clubs, while inclusion on the limited register prohibits entry into conformation events.

In nearly every region of the world, the Border Collie is now also a breed which is shown in ring or bench shows. For the people who participate in these events, the Border Collie is defined by a breed standard, which is a description of how the dog should look.

Temperament is also a major consideration for show dogs. In NZ and Australia where the breed has been shown through-out most of the twentieth century, the Border Collie standards have produced a dog with the longer double coat (smooth coats are allowed), a soft dark eye, a body slightly longer than tall, a well- defined stop, as well as a gentle and friendly temperament. This style of Border Collie has become popular in winning show kennels around the world, as well as among the prestigious judges. Showing is an extremely time consuming and expensive hobby, but the dogs achievements and the handler's own personal satisfaction being seen showing this delightful breed, out-way any negatives or expense. There is nothing like watching your beautiful Border Collie run around the ring and to take a win or a place, the dogs just love all the attention and the handler gets to spend wonderful quality time with a very happy dog that is doing a job!!

Puppies/Litters - When a kennel produces a litter of Border Collies it is usually only for a couple of reasons, the breeder will only every want to benefit the Border Collie breed so will have all DNA testing done for all known Border Collie diseases on it's Dam and Sire before a mating ever takes place. The breeder may want to produce a litter to get a new puppy for their own kennel, or may be repeating a very successful mating to produce quality puppies for other breeders and the public.

The bitch will produce a litter size of usually between 6 and 10 puppies. The puppies weight's at birth should be between 250 grams and 450grams (depending on the health of the Dam). A lot of research is done by the breeder in regard to a mating of the Dam and Sire because of the genetics involved with coat colours, markings and hereditary diseases etc, so don't be scared of asking the breeder any questions you may have, and always make sure you have documented evidence of your puppy's health status before purchase.

You will be assured that when you choose your puppy from a reputable breeder you will have a lifetime of support from them, and a healthy wonderful Border Collie puppy to take home.

So is a Border collie the right dog for you?? The people who make the most satisfied Border Collie owners are people who enjoy spending a lot of time with their dogs and are willing and able to make the commitment to exercise and train in some way every day; who are very active, who like to hike, jog, and/or take long walks with their dogs; who don't mind living with a dog that never really settles down, even in the house, even after a lot of exercise, even when it's owner is tired from a long day at work; and most importantly, who have a real job for the dogs to do, whether it's one of the dog sports that these dogs excel at, or, of course, herding a flock of sheep!!!